The original pilgrims were not just trying to get from A to B. The trials and tribulations of the journey were part of the experience, as was calling at recognised holy sites along the way. Modern pilgrims want to feel that they are following in the footsteps of these previous generations. So re-creating a pilgrimage route is not as simple as looking at a map and working out the shortest way from one place to another.

The Northern Pilgrims' Way is what is known in the trade as a braided route. In other words, it offers the pilgrim alternative tracks between the start and end points. (Details of ferries to Orkney and the onward route to Kirkwall will follow). Here is a summary of these alternatives. While it may seem complicated, a look at a map will simplify things! While some routes have more history attached to them than others, all are genuine pilgrimage ways through the North of Scotland.
The braids are as follows:

Braid 1:

Tain to Helmsdale via the John o’Groat Trail, (JOGT) then branch inland to Spittal via Kildonan, Forsinain, Altnabreac and Loch More. From Spittal, return to Mybster, turn north to Watten and Canisbay then west to Gills Bay and the ferry to Orkney.

Braid 2:

Tain to Dunbeath via the JOGT (but see safety warning for Ousdale on stage 8), then branch inland to Spittal via Braemore, Glutt, Dalnawillan and Loch More to join Braid 1.

Braid 3 :

Tain to John O'Groats via the JOGT and on to Gills Bay along the coast/road/tracks. See the JOGT website for details of this braid. 

Some stages are still under construction and all but the most intrepid walkers are advised to return to the main road for sections involving cliff-edges, steep gorges or deep rivers without bridges.

For descriptions and mileages, see the more detailed sections on each stage.

When deciding on these routes, the key factors to consider were the historical evidence and modern conditions. Caithness is relatively flat, without the mountains and glens that channelled both locals and travellers into specific routes in other parts of the country. During the centuries that we are interested in, the population was fairly evenly scattered, with some clustering along the banks of the main rivers. Chapels, graveyards and holy wells give clues to where people lived and the tracks that they used. It is clear from these remains that the river Thurso was an important navigational aid for those travelling through the county. Another important set of clues is place names. Caithness has three sites dedicated to St Magnus – chapels at Spittal, where the remains of the chapel can still be seen and the graveyard was in use until a century ago, Shebster, where nothing remains to be seen, and Watten where the annual agricultural fair was known as the Magnusmas Fair. The St Magnus chapel at Shebster suggests a journey from Helmsdale and all points south following the Ca-na-Catanach (a drove road for cattle) towards Shurrery, with its 'House of Blessing' (surely an overnight resting place) and on by Shebster to St Mary's chapel, Crosskirk, where the pilgrim would cross the Pentland Firth to Orkney. Large parts of the Ca-na-Catanach now lie under forestry land, so this route can no longer be recommended.

The site at Spittal can be linked to Helmsdale by an inland route marked by the sites of ancient chapels. These take the pilgrim up the strath to Kilphedar, across between Morven and Scaraben to Braemore then north to Loch More and Spittal. As the route between Morven and Scaraben is unmarked, very boggy and on a sporting estate, this also is not recommended. Instead the pilgrim can continue up the coast to Dunbeath, another important site with its House of Peace, and follow the road inland for six miles to Braemore. From Spittal, the pilgrim would have travelled to one of several harbours in order to continue to Orkney. In practice, the tides and winds would dictate the embarkation point that any one journey would use and therefore which route the traveller would take. When a more westerly route was indicated, the pilgrim could have followed the river Thurso to the sea and Thurso Bay. For a more easterly journey, the pilgrim would have made his way through Watten to Canisbay on the coast between Gills Bay and John o'Groats. Local knowledge suggests that neither Gills Bay nor John O' Groats were the main harbours for Orkney but Huna, which lies between them.

Of course, the simplest route to navigate is just to follow the coast from Tain to John O' Groats and no doubt many travellers did so. However this route was more weather-dependant than inland ones and includes various river crossings that would be impassable in wet weather – there were no bridges in the area until the mid-18th century.

See an overview of the stages using each button below.